Most times, the garment-making process by a bespoke tailor is still a mystery to even the most experienced designer. Like we are used to buying food from the market and store, we do not even remember what happened with the farmers who cultivated it and the delivery men and women who moved it to the supermarket shelf. We have gotten so used to clothes that we do not think about the craftsmen who produce them. So, while bespoke garment making can seem like a mystery, understanding the step-by-step bespoke tailoring process involved in it will help you appreciate the care and expertise of this unique art.
The following are the steps involved in bespoke garment making-
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The initial consultation
Just like every kind of business, garment making starts with an initial consultation. This is where you share ideas of what you expect from your clothing, and our head cutter takes the necessary measurements for the clothes. They will consider your posture and body features needed to prepare the patterns for your garment.
The most important aspect of this meeting will be your garment idea and its occasional use. Don’t worry about this; our head cutter will help you make the best choice and lead you through our materials library to choose the cloth that best fits your design.
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Pattern cutting
To start the garment making process, we use brown paper and your measurements to carve out the pattern for the garment. This pattern acts as the blueprint of the garment in view.
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Trimming
Every pattern for your garments will be laid on the cloth and with chalk, outlined to translate this pattern to the cloth material. We usually allow an extra allowance for some seams. We call this the inlay. It provides room for tailors to change the garment during the creation process and adjust it later if you have changes in your weight or stature.
We also call this stage the trimming process because materials like canvassing and lining will be cut into sizes. The canvassing is used as the lifeblood of a uniquely made suit to give it that organic shape and feel that cannot be gotten from a ready-made garment.
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Garment construction
After pattern cutting and trimming, we pass over the garment to our collection of tailors, who will walk in their specialised area to construct the garment. This specialised area in the world’s bespoke suits includes trouser making, waistcoat making, and coat making. We will attach the canvassing to the suit using our hands with visibly large stitches called bastings. After the suit has been loosely constructed, it should be ready for its first fitting.
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Fitting with the baste
Within the first few weeks of your initial consultation, your suit will be ready to be fitted. The fitting is usually done during this stage to help the tailor have a better outlook of the garment. And know where to make adjustments.
Though some aspects of the garments, like the shape and structure, will remain the same after being finished, other details like the pocket will be mapped out and started.
As a client, this fitting process will show you the framework of your suit other than the finished thing.
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Marking up
After the first fitting appointment, your garments will be marked up for the relevant adjustment and then deconstructed for a re-cut. The head cutter will make adjustments to your original pattern. We usually keep this original pattern in a file so that if you return for another garment, it will be used on new cloth.
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Second fitting
During your second fitting appointment, you will see better and more refined garments. Our head cutter must have checked every aspect to ensure fit and comfortable to wear by this time. They will also check for the length of the trouser, drape, and overall quality.
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The finishing
After making all the adjustments, we will pass it over to our specialised tailor. So that it can run through every part of the suit and finish. This includes the linings, buttonholes, and pockets, which are made by hands.
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Pressing and final fitting
After the finishing has been done, we press the suit with a customised mould to reinforce its structure and shape. For the final fitting and collections, we advise clients on how to clean and care for the suit so that it can last a long time. read this blog post.
In many aspects, having a bespoke tailored suit goes more than just having a luxury product. But meeting one on one with ancient crafts where your garment is specifically tailored for you. Having a bespoke garment or anything else requires time investment and a good relationship with your tailor. When perfectly made, a tailored garment will last for many years.
Visit Bespoke Suits London here for your unique tailoring services.
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